Waxes
Waxes are primarily responsible for the hold and durability of a product. Some come with hair benefits but the main idea with waxes is to provide structure and hold. The melting points usually signify how well they will hold up in different weather types and can also effect the texture of a product.
Beeswax
- The vitamin A content in beeswax helps to moisturize hair
- Promotes hair growth
- Positive effect on the scalp, too. Research has shown it can soothe symptoms of skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and dandruff.
- Anti-Microbrial
- Low melting point 147 degrees farenheit (medium hold)
- Sticky texture allows for straightening out hair and removing fly-aways.
Carnauba Wax
- High Melting point 185 degrees F, Hard Wax (High Hold)
- Vegan
- Binds to oil
- Main functionality is to provide hold and durability
- No known nourishing benefits to hair
Microcrystalline Wax
- Artificial Wax derived by de-oiling Petroleum
- Melting points range from 145-200 Degrees F which gives it a range of medium to high hold depending on the origin of the source.
- Provides hold
- No known nourishing benefits to hair.
Soywax
- Melting point ranges from 120-180 degrees F making range from light hold to strong hold.
- Conditions hair
- Adds shine
- Natural
Rice Bran Wax
- Vegan based wax from rice
- High meting point 176 degrees F
- Large crystals provide some texture
- Helps bind ingredients like oils.
Emulsifying Wax
- Helps bind ingredients like oil and water
- Keeps structure of products with variety of ingredients like waxes, clays, oils, water, etc.
- No known hair benefits.
Oils
Oils are typically naturally derived products that will add different nourishing effects to the hair and scalp. They can be used as a primary ingredient to create what is known as an oil based pomade. These types of pomades are usually resistant to water and leave the hair soft allowing for easy restyling throughout the day. Oil based products can melt in high temperatures and lose the structure if not combined with strong waxes. Because oil based products are water resistant, it makes them difficult to wash out with one round of shampoo.
Petrolatum
- Locks in moisture in hair and scalp
- Blocks out new moisture for hair and scalp
- Derived from Petroleum
- Easy to work with and apply
- Leaves hair soft, however doesn't add any nourishment.
Castor Oil
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Contains ricinoleic acid and omega-6 fatty acids and therefore when massaged onto the scalp it helps in increasing the blood circulation which improves hair growth.
- Strengthens hair roots which help prevent hair loss.
- Plant based natural oil
- Adds shine and smoothness
- Softens and conditions the hair fiber
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Peg-40)
- Solid form of Castor Oil at room temperature
- Adds structure, hold, and shine to products
- Prevents moisture loss to hair and scalp
Lanolin
- Animal byproduct of sheep (secretion to protect wool)
- Very Hydrating.
- Adds creamy texture to products.
Coconut Oil
- Promotes scalp health
- Prevents dandruff
- Adds moisture to dry hair
- Leaves hair soft and flexible
- Adds shine
- Prevents breakage
- Prevents heat damage
- Kills lice
Sunflower Oil
- Contains Vitamin E and other vitamins that nourish hair
- Controls frizzy hair and flyaways
- Contains oleic acid which prevents hair breakage
- Anti-inflammatory properties can help with itchy scalp
- Adds moisture to hair
Argan Oil
- Contains Vitamin E and Fatty acids adding nutrients to hair
- Provides shine and smoothness
- Adds moisture
- Dubbed as "liquid gold" for its hair and skin nourishing properites
- Derived from Moroccan Argan Tree
- Prevents hair damage
Jojoba Oil
-
Rich in vitamins and minerals that nourish hair, including vitamin C, B vitamins, vitamin E, copper, and zinc
- Adds moisture
- Heavier waxy consistency
- Conditions Scalp and hair roots
Avocado Oil
- Lightweight
- Contains Vitamin D and E which promote hair growth
- UV Protection
- Quickly penetrates skin to help with dandruff and psoriasis
- One of few oils that can penetrate hair shaft instead of coating outer layer
Sweet Almond Oil
- Fills gaps at cellular level in hair making it smooth and strong
- Adds shine and moisture
- Lubricates the hair to avoid tug and pull during styling
Grapeseed Oil
- Lightweight oil that doesn't leave a residue
- Restores Sebum, a naturally occurring oil on the scalp that declines as you age
- Adds shine without weighing down hair
- Reduces or eliminates dandruff
Clays
Clays are going to have similar properties of drawing out toxins from the scalp, creating a matte finish, and adding texture to the hair. Clays have different molecular sizes which will change the level of texture in the hair. This also impacts the exfoliant properites and the washout. Clays are naturally mined from the Earth but different processes have created the different types.
Bentonite
- Detoxes hair and scalp of impurities in the skin and hair
- Adds texture and matte finish
- Contains natural minerals that get added to the hair
- Sourced from the earth (volcanic ash)
- Antimicrobial
Kaolin
- Draws toxins out of hair and scalp
- Finer than Bentonite, adding separation and texture at the follicle level
- Found in nature
- Can provide sleeker, natural finish looks.
- Aids washout due to fineness in texture, exfoliates hair and scalp.
- Exfoliant which can stimulate blood flow to hair follicles, aiding hair growth.
Dead Sea Clay
- Clay that comes from the Dead Sea.
- Contains unique vitamins and minerals like potassium, magnesium, sodium, bromine, and calcium.
- Draws out toxins in scalp.
- Adds texture and matte finish.
Butters
Butters are usually derived from different types of fruit seeds. They provide moisture, nourishment, emulsify ingredients and provide a creamy texture.
Shea Butter
- Fatty acids repair damaged hair
- Moisturizes and softens the hair
- Moisturizes the scalp
- UV Protection to help with sun damage to hair
Cocoa Butter
- Hard at room temperature providing hold and volume
- Restores lost oils in hair due to shampoo
- Penetrates hair shaft
- Contains Stearic, Palmitic, Oleanic & Lauric acids which nourish and keep hair healthy
Mango Seed Butter
- Contains a plethora of beneficial ingredients like Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E.
- UV Protectant
- Derived from mango seeds
- Conditions hair
- Locks on moisture (but doesn't provide moisture)